Aztex Green Handbook
From Catalog
This is a Green Book for the promotional products industry, to help our industry understand and choose the most appropriate products for the end-users. This site is hosted on this website currently, but we are looking for an industry association partner who would like to host it, so that it may have maximum exposure, and maximum contributions. If you would like to add any comments, please do so. We will be starting discussion threads shortly on various industry sites, which will be posted here. We hope you will join those discussions as well.
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Thinking Green Products
Consumerism can have a great impact on the environment and human health, but with masses of information circulating about “enviro friendly” products, it can be hard to comprehend what truly is green. Whilst the cultivation of organic and creation of recycled fibres plays a large role of importance, many don’t realize that the dyeing and finishing processes used can often be poisonous to both humans and the environment. (Please see the chart on how clothing manufacturing impact environment, health and safety). Another dominant factor is the transportation of goods. Whilst buying locally is important, we need to look at the bigger picture. Fibres produced in North America are often sent to Asia and back for manufacturing, doubling the fuel emissions than fibres sent from Asia directly. Unfortunately there are no current regulations for branding a product as green which can result in Greenwashing. Anyone can claim their product is ecologically friendly without realizing its true environmental impact. It is our job in the promotional industry to learn the facts, so that we can inform the consumer and together make environmentally healthy decisions. To help understand the various types of Green products, we have broken down eco friendly products into three basic categories: Organic Products, Sustainable Products, and Recycled Products.
A LIST OF COMPANY CONTRIBUTORS TO THIS WIKI DOCUMENT CAN BE FOUND HERE: (HYPERLINK)
Organic Products
Organic products are made from raw material, which is grown without the use of pesticides, fertilizers or other chemicals. Organic farmers often practice crop rotation, so whilst rice might drain the soil of one nutrient, the next crop, for example cotton, may replenish that nutrient. This greatly reduces the need for artificial fertilization.
The main types of Organic Products are: Jute, Bioplastic/PLA, Organic Cotton, and Organic Wool.
Jute
What is it?
Jute is a long, soft, shiny vegetable fiber that can be spun into coarse, strong threads. It is one of the most important natural fibres after cotton in terms of cultivation and usage.
Region
Almost 85% of the world’s jute cultivation is concentrated in the Ganges Delta (Bangladesh & India). Jute is also largely cultivated in China, and on a smaller scale in Thailand, Myanmar (Burma), Pakistan, Nepal and Bhutan.
Common Promotional and Apparel Uses
Clothing, bags, wrappers, packaging.
Pros
- Jute is 100% biodegradable and recyclable.
- It is a rain fed crop with little need for fertilizer or pesticides.
- This limits the need for harsh bleaches to remove chemical residue from farming.
- Jute provides good insulating and antistatic properties, as well as having low thermal conductivity and a moderate moisture regain.
- Comfortable against the skin.
Cons
- Without treatments, jute has poor drapability and brittleness.
- Jute has a decreased strength when wet and becomes subject to microbial attack in humid climates.
- Jute is mainly produced overseas.
Interesting Facts
- In Africa and the Philippines, jute leaves are made into a soup which is rich in iron, calcium and Vitamin C.
Bioplastic/PLA
What is it?
Polylactide acid (PLA) is a transparent plastic produced by fermenting the glucose in vegetables such as corn and sugar cane. The market names for PLA fabric are “NatureWorks” (named after the leading company of PLA) and “Ingeo”.
Region
The U.S. is the largest producer of PLA plastic. Other countries producing bioplastics on a large scale include Japan, China, Thailand and European countries.
Common Promotional and Apparel Uses
Packaging, clothing, cups, drink bottles.
Pros
- Ingeo has similar qualities to polyester, which is made from oil. For the North American textile industry, this means less dependence on foreign oil companies for raw material.
- Ingeo is less flammable, more resilient and breathable than polyester.
- PLA Can be processed on equipment that already exists for the production of conventional plastics.
- Manufacturing requires fewer fossil resources and generates fewer greenhouse gases than traditional plastics.
- NatureWorks PLA offers the most landfill waste diversion options globally of any current commercially available plastic material. It can be physically recycled, industrially composted, incinerated, and chemically converted back to lactic acid through hydrolysis.
Cons
- Expensive to produce.
- Not 100% organic. Corn fibre is often made of a mixed stream of genetically modified and non-genetically modified corn.
- Corn crops require a great deal of water to grow.
- PLA products are often advertised as “biodegradable”. This gives people the false sense that PLA will biodegrade if littered or thrown in their own compost, when in fact PLA needs specific landfill conditions to decompose.
- Many argue that the production of the bioplastics are contributing to the global food crisis by taking over large areas of land previously used to grow crops for human consumption.
- PLA often gets mixed into the PET recycling stream, contaminating and jeopardizing PET recycling.
Interesting Facts
- Opening in 2001, the first and largest PLA facility in the world is located in Blair, Nebraska USA.
- The following recycling symbol stands for “other”, and includes PLA, nylon fibre and fibre glass:
Organic Cotton
What is it?
Organic cotton is grown without pesticides, from plants which are not genetically modified. This method is becoming increasingly popular in the cotton industry.
Region
The highest producers of organic cotton are Turkey, India, China, Syria, Peru, Uganda, Tanzania, Israel, the U.S. and Pakistan.
Common Promotional and Apparel Uses
Cotton makes up half of the world’s fibre needs, so the use of organic cotton is endless; clothing, bags, hats, lanyards, key fobs etc.
Cons of Conventional Cotton
- Production of conventional cotton uses more chemicals per unit area than any other crop and accounts in total for 16% of the world’s pesticides.
- During manufacturing, bleach is used to wash away many of the farming chemicals, whilst a variety of toxic chemicals are used throughout the weaving, dyeing and finishing stages. Washing away the residues of these chemicals requires large quantities of water, resulting in H2o that is polluted by heavy metals.
- Most of the world’s conventional cotton production takes place in developing countries, where statistics of illness and death due to pesticides are alarming.
Pros of Organic Cotton
- 100% biodegradable.
- Exceptionally soft.
- Whilst cotton is noted as the biggest “non-food” agricultural crop in the world, as much as 65 percent of the cotton harvest can enter the food chain. Cottonseed, cottonseed husk and meal can make up a quarter of the daily nutrition in dairy herds, whilst cottonseed oil is used for cooking in 8 percent of the world’s population. Producing organic makes the use of cottonseed safe for all to consume.
- Manufacturers of 100% organic, also known as “natural manufacturing” use natural alternatives to toxic agents.
Cons of Organic Cotton
- More costly to produce than conventional cotton.
- Some cottons are organically farmed, but then manufactured using chemicals. These products are still advertised as “organic” because the first stage of production was natural.
Interesting Facts
- Many chemicals used in conventional farming were first developed for warfare.
- The earliest production of organic cotton was in Egypt in 1990.
Organic Wool
What Is It?
Wool is the fibre from follicles of animals in the Caprinae family, principally sheep. The hair of certain species of other mammals such as goats, llamas and rabbits may also be called wool. In contrast to hair or fur, wool is crimped, elastic and grows in clusters. For wool to be classified as organic it must be produced in accordance with federal standards for organic livestock productions.
Region
Australia, New Zealand and China are the largest producers of wool. Smaller scale producers include Argentina, Turkey, Iran, the U.K., India, Sudan, South Africa and the U.S.
Common Promotional and Apparel Uses
Whilst wool has long been used in winter clothing, it is now also being woven into a range of active wear.
Cons of Conventional Wool
- Large scale commercial grazing has relied on synthetic chemical inputs to increase profitability and to allow wool production in regions and climates to which it is unsuited.
- Sheep in overgrazed pastures become susceptibale to mange and pests such as mites, lice and flies. To control these pests and parasites, pesticide treatments are applied to the sheep.
• The organo phosphorus compounds in these pesticides are highly toxic to fish and anphibians. Some of the chemicals are also highly water soluble which means they can be easily carried from the sheep dip application site by rain or irrigation water runoff into our water ways.
- There have also been links between these pecticides and damage to the nervous system in sheep workers.
- Conventional wool is scoured and cleaned using chemicals.
- Farmers of conventional wool can use synthetic hormones and genetic engineering.
Pros of Organic Wool
- Organic standards expel the use of pesticides, synthetic hormones and genetic engineering.
- Organic wool is washed in certified organic biodegradable detergent.
- Livestock feed must be certified organic.
- Merino fleece, which has the finest micron (diameter of a wool fibre) is of the highest quality and is the standard fleece used in organic wool. Merino is naturally shrink resistant, moth resistant and softer so it does not rely on chemicals to obtain these qualities.
- Organic wool manufacturers use low-impact metal free dyes.
- Insulating and breathable.
- Mildew, wrinkle, static, dirt and fire resistant.
Cons of Organic Wool
- Expensive to produce.
Interesting Facts
- Wool is comparatively stronger than steel.
- Sheep wool has been woven for over 10 000 years, beginning in Asia Minor (now Turkey).
Sustainable Products
Sustainable products are made from regenerative plants such as bamboo, hemp and soybean. The use of these resources replaces our dependency on crops that require substantial amounts of farming, water and pesticides.
The main types of Sustainable Products are: Soy Fabric, Bamboo, Hemp Fabric, and Cocona®.
Soy Fabric
What is it?
Soy fabric is made from a by-product of soybean oil production. It is made by extracting protein from the residue of soybean oil during tofu production, then spun into a fibre which has been nicknamed “Vegetable Cashmere”.
Region
The largest producers of soy are the U.S., Brazil, Argentina, China, India, Paraguay, Canada and Bolivia. The largest manufacturer of soy fabric is China.
Common Promotional and Apparel Uses
Clothing, bags, hats.
Pros
- Using soy for fabric does not deplete the world’s food supply, as it is a by-product of tofu.
- Antibacterial.
- Breathable.
- Protective against UV rays.
- As soft as silk.
- Easy to care for as it dries without creasing.
- The high protein content makes it receptive to natural dyes.
Cons
- Environmental groups such as Greenpeace and WWF have reported that soybean cultivation in Brazil has destroyed large areas of the Amazon Rainforest.
Interesting Facts
- The first written reference to soy appears in a list of Chinese plants from 2853 B.C.
- Soy is also used to make vodka, soap, cosmetics, plastics, candle wax, inks and crayons.
Bamboo
What is it?
Bamboo is the largest plant of the grass family, and with a growth rate of up to 4 feet per day it is the fastest growing woody plant in the world. Bamboo fabric can be made in a number of different ways, using the leaves and the woody part of the plant.
Region
Bamboo grows on every continent, and in almost every climate depending on the species. Most of the bamboo harvested for human use grows in tropical climates such as South East Asia and South America.
Common Promotional and Apparel Uses
Clothing, bags, hats, scarves, pen barrels.
Pros
- Bamboo is an excellent ‘spokes plant’ for sustainability. It grows fast and wild and is dependant only on local soil and climate conditions.
- Bamboo is fed by rain, and doesn’t need to be watered.
- A bamboo shoot releases more oxygen than a tree of the same size.
- Bamboo has an amazing root system which is intertwined underground, and cradles an abundance of soil and water. This prevents soil erosion and landslides.
- Bamboo fabric has excellent moisture absorption and exceptional breathability.
- Naturally anti-bacterial and biodegradable.
- Once treated, bamboo fabric is luxuriously soft.
- Bamboo is also an answer for paper, floorboards and numerous products that would otherwise come from a cultivated forest.
Cons
- Whilst there are a number of manufacturing methods for bamboo fibre that are enviro friendly, the most commonly used method is still chemically. Most of the luxurious bamboo fibres used in ‘eco fashion’ involve cooking the bamboo leaves and woody shoots in strong chemical solvents, followed by further toxic treatments.
- Bamboo plantations can displace native forests.
Interesting Facts
- The Taiwanese eat 80 000 tons of bamboo shoots every year.
- Bamboo was the first plant to regrow after the atomic blast in Hiroshima.
- Several Asian cultures believe that humanity emerged from a bamboo stem. In the Philippine creation myth, legend tells that the first man and the first woman each emerged from split bamboo stems on an island created after the battle of the elemental forces (Sky and Ocean).
Hemp Fabric
What is it?
Hemp is made from the bast fibres found in the stem of the hemp plant.
Region
China, Philippines, Russia and Ukraine.
Common Promotional and Apparel Uses
Clothing, bags, hats, paper.
Pros
- Hemp is grown without the use of herbicides and pesticides.
- A field of hemp can be utilized twice a year. By comparison, a tree once cut needs 15-20 years to re-grow.
- Hemp drops leaves constantly during the growing season, replenishing the soil of nutrients as opposed to cotton, which depletes the earth of its nutrients.
- Hemp has better anti-bacterial properties than any other natural fibre, making it extremely resistant to mold, mildew and rot. It is excellent for outdoor activities and travel, as it does not hold odors.
- Highly breathable as it wicks moisture away from the body.
- Hemp provides more UV sun protection than any other natural fibre.
- Strongest natural fibre used in clothing. It lasts four times longer than cotton clothing.
- Softens with each wash making it more comfortable with age without fibre degradation.
- Using land to grow a field of hemp does not contribute to global food shortage. Hemp seed can be eaten raw, or used to make meal, flour, protein powder, oil, tea and milk (akin to soy milk). Fresh hemp leaves can also be eaten in salads.
Cons
- Hemp is widely grown in Canada, however only for seed and oil used in food and cosmetics–not fibre.
- Industrial hemp production has long been prohibited in the U.S. due to it’s connection with the drug marijuana. Though hemp laws are now being passed around states such as Kentucky, Vermont and North Dakota, the United States are not yet players in the hemp industry. Thus hemp fabrics are manufactured and imported from overseas.
Interesting Facts
- Hemp is one of the oldest industries on the planet, dating back over 10 000 years.
- Presidents Washington and Jefferson both grew hemp.
- Hemp is also used to make fuels and rope bridges.
Cocona®
What is it?
Cocona® is derived from would be discarded coconut shell husks. The husks are then processed into activated charcoal carbon and blended into a polyester matrix, which is spun into a fiber and then knit into a base layer fabric. It is usually used in athletic apparel.
Region
Cocona® is a privately held Colorado company.
Common Promotional and Apparel Uses
Clothing, socks, hats.
Pros
- Moisture wicking.
- Quick drying.
- Anti-microbial.
- Allows a new life for the large amount of coconut waste products from the food industry, which would otherwise be on their way to landfills.
- Has been labelled the most important development in textiles since Gore-Tex.
Cons
- Whilst some of the polyester mixed with the coconut charcoal carbon is recycled, some is still produced from petroleum oil, sustaining our dependence on foreign oil.
Interesting Facts
- Cocona is also used in sleeping bags.
Recycled Products
Recycled products are made from reground/melted materials. Post-industrial recycled material is usually derived from manufacturing waste or sub-standard products (factory scraps). Post consumer recycled is made from pre-used items such as soda cans, water bottles or rubber tires.
The main types of Recycled Products are: Recycled Paper, Recycled PET, Recycled Metal, and Eco2 Cotton.
Recycled Paper
What is it?
Recycled paper is paper made from old paper products. Recyclable paper comes in 3 categories:
- 1. Mill Broke - paper trimmings from the paper manufacturer, which is recycled internally in the mill.
- 2. Pre-consumer - paper that was discarded before it was ready for consumer use.
- 3. Post-consumer - paper discarded after consumer use, such as magazines and phone books.
- 2. Pre-consumer - paper that was discarded before it was ready for consumer use.
Region
Paper is recycled all over the world.
Common Promotional and Apparel Uses
Bags, boxes, packaging, pamphlets, magazines, books.
Pros
- Reduces the number of trees which are harvested for virgin pulp, cutting back the environmental impact of harvesting, transportation and processing.
- 35% of municipal solid waste is paper products. Recycling this waste relieves our landfills.
- Producing recycled paper requires roughly half the energy than that of non recycled.
- Recycling paper causes less water and air pollution than conventional paper.
Cons
- Debates over recycled paper using more fossil fuels than new pulp via the kraft process.
Interesting Facts
- Paper counts for more than 1/3 of all of Canada’s waste.
- The concept of paper recycling is over 6 centuries old.
Recycled PET
What is it?
PET stands for polyethylene terephthalate. It is a polyester plastic that is manufactured from oil based raw materials. PET is one of the most important raw materials used in man-made fibres, and is 100% recyclable. Pop and water bottles are almost exclusively made from PET.
Region
PET can be recycled anywhere in the world, though it is hard to determine which country recycles the most. Recycled PET has become a large export industry for both North and South America, where recycled PET flakes are shipped to countries such as China, Thailand and the Philippines for manufacturing.
Common Promotional and Apparel Uses
Water and pop bottles, drinking mugs, lanyards, hats.
Pros
- With such a well established market for recycled PET, it is more than likely that all the PET you throw in the recycling bin will be re-used as a new product.
- PET is largely produced in North America and does not need to be imported. In fact the U.S. makes further profit through exporting recycled PET to other countries.
Cons
- Non biodegradable.
Interesting Facts
- Recycled PET is also used to make carpets, blankets, upholstery, stuffing for sleeping bags, ski jackets, cushions and mattresses. In this case, the recycled plastic is made into flakes, melted and then extruded into hair-like strands. The fibres are then crimped, cut and baled so that they can be spun into yarn and knitted or woven into fabric.
- The first PET bottle was recycled in 1977.
- Following is a PET “recyclable” symbol:
Recycled Metal
What is it?
Metal is an element that is crystalline when solid, and mined from the ground. We use many types of metal in our everyday lives, almost all being recyclable. There is a large industry for both household and industrial scrap metal.
Region
Metal is mined and recycled all over the world.
Common Promotional and Apparel Uses
Dog tags, key rings, badge reels, lanyard clips, belt buckles.
Pros
- It takes less energy to melt down waste and recycle than it does to produce new material.
- Using recycled metal reduces Co2 emissions and air pollution.
- Uses less water and less water is polluted.
- Reduces the amount of metal going into landfills.
- Different metals are easily separated at the recycling plant with magnets.
- Metal can be recycled over and over again.
- Recycled metal export is a profitable industry.
Cons
- Due to lack of knowledge and concern, much of the metal that is recyclable is thrown out and sits in landfills.
Interesting Facts
- The energy it takes to make 1 new aluminium can is enough to make 20 recycled ones.
- Recycling one aluminium can saves enough energy to power a television for 3 hours.
Eco2 Cotton
What is it?
Eco2 Cotton is made from pre-consumer fibers and clippings that are collected after the cut and sew process, sorted by color and blended. The resulting cotton-like fluff is used for spinning new solid and organic looking yarns.
Region
Most of the information circulating on the internet about Eco2 Cotton is posted on American apparel websites. It is likely that North America is a leader in making Eco2 Cotton.
Common Promotional and Apparel Uses
Clothing, bags, hats.
Pros
- Reduces incinerator and landfill use by reprocessing pre-consumer textile waste.
- Recycled cotton fibres require little to no dying, saving water and adding no new pollutants.
- No land use, water intensive irrigation, fertilizers or pesticides are used as are in growing new cotton.
- The simplified manufacturing process reduces energy and resource use.
Cons
- Eco2 Cotton is often blended with virgin acrylic, which is produced from oil - increasing our dependence on foreign oil.
Interesting Facts
- Eco2 Cotton is also used as insulation in homes, as well as filling for pillows, mattresses, blankets etc.
Conclusion
For organic products, we recommend buying organic cotton over jute, for the simple reason that organic cotton is largely produced and manufactured in North America. It is also important to read the labels - make sure the label says “made/manufactured” in the U.S., and not just “made from organic cotton grown in the U.S.”. Most fabrics made from sustainable sources are manufactured overseas. If you choose to order sustainable fabrics, however, we recommend soy. Soy fabric is a by-product of food already in production, so it does not require any extra land for farming or cultivation. In regards to plastics, recycled PET may be a safer buy over PLA. Whilst PLA may one day take the lead as the most environmentally friendly plastic, it is still fairly new on the market with many speculations as to it’s production methods. PET is currently in abundance - we recommend recycling all your PET, and also learning and abiding by the recycle codes. Remember, there is a difference between recycled, partially recycled and recyclable. Distributers purchasing recycled products need be wary of misleading advertising and read the small print. To the right is an example of a product that is advertised as eco friendly, but the fine print reads “15% recycled”. For all products it is important to reduce freight by buying locally, or ordering ahead of time when the product is being transported across country. Placing your order early assures that the cargo will be transported across land, as opposed to a rush order that may be flown overstate.
The Future of our Industy
Our industry needs to change to be a leader, and our end users will respond positively to such leadership.
Transportation Neutrality
Our industry would benefit by being able to provide our end-users with the option of having their products (Green and other) shipped with zero footprint. This is actually being done by DHL in Europe, but is not offered by any courier in America. We are working with FedEx to bring this service to our industry, but could use the weight of your association to help them understand the market share they could gain if they could provide this service. The concept is very simple: calculate the emissions produced by shipping goods, and charge 3% more to be applied to purchasing offsetting credits (tree plantings, etc.). You may have seen this offered if you have booked a flight on-line. After airlines, our industry would be the first in America to offer this option, which would be welcomed by our industry’s end-users, many of whom have stated objectives to reduce their footprints. We need the help of our industry's associations and members to jointly pursue this initiative.
Footprint Unit
Another way our industry could increase its perception, and increase sales to progressive end-users, is to have a standard unit of measure for the footprint of each item. This would only need to be done for Green items. Our industry would need to partner with an independent lab and get items and their manufacturing processes assessed. Once we are empowered with the footprint of the items, end-users can choose between options based on the footprint, and as above, we can offer (sell) them offsetting credits to make the purchase carbon-neutral. There are a lot of dollars out there for carbon-neutral offerings, and we can grow our industry’s sales in an adverse economic climate, by tapping into Green budgets. Ultimately industry search engines such as Sage, Promocan, ESP, would be able to provide a search by footprint, something we think distributors would value highly.
Trade Marks and other Patent Matters
ECO® Trademark
Boardroom Eco Apparel has received certificates of registration for its ECO® trademark in both U.S.A. and Canada. This trademark will help to dispel any confusion arising from the improper usage of the term ECO® by companies that infringe upon our trademark. When referring to environmentally friendly apparel, the correct term is ‘ecological.’” Boardroom Eco Apparel is obligated to defend its proprietary trademark rights both from a legal perspective, and because it is the best way to mediate “green-washing” within the industry, while at the same time protecting its partners and customer base. “Our clients re-sell our eco-apparel, and have chosen our brand because of our high environmental, health and safety standards, and transparency. We need to legally protect the integrity of our clients from promotional product distributors who purchase from suppliers that infringe upon our ECO® trademark; who claim that their clothing is environmentally friendly when it does not in fact meet the same high environmental standards as Boardroom Eco Apparel.”
Background Information on Boardroom Eco Apparel
Boardroom Eco Apparel is an audited socially compliant company and fair trade manufacturer that creates custom lifestyle clothing collections for fashion-conscious people who demand style, comfort and increased functional performance from their everyday clothing. Boardroom Eco Apparel is a Bluesign® brand member.
For more information, please visit: www.ecoapparel.ca
External Links
- Chart: How clothing manufacturing impact environment, health and safety - http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Harmreduction.jpg
- Greenwashing Definition - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greenwashing
- DHL in Europe Article - http://www.logasiamag.com/article-360-dhlintroducesindustryfirstcarbonneutralshippingserviceinasiapacific-LogisticsAsia.html
- Eco Apparel Website - http://www.ecoapparel.ca
- U.S. Trademark Link - http://tarr.uspto.gov/servlet/tarr?regser=serial&entry=77103846&action=Request+Status
- Canadian Trademark Link -http://strategis.ic.gc.ca/app/cipo/trademarks/search/viewTrademark.do;jsessionid=0000dSXXO4SBcr248p1TjFNozW:1247nfca5language=eng&fileNumber=1334536&extension=0&startingDocumentIndexOnPage=1
